Filkin's Drift
A folk music band’s epic 870-mile walking tour...
We had already explored some amazing peaks of the mountains of North Wales and so when the path opened it was a challenge not to be missed.
Start date: January 2012
Finish Date: Mayday 2019
Anglesey was wonderful and certainly one of the highlights When we arrived at Trearddur it was the Oyster Festival and following our walk, luckily got a seat at a local pub that was bouncing – it was great to be in the middle of an amazing evening of live bands, food and drink and many happy visitors.
There wasn’t really an order to our route and when we completed North Wales we jumped around. The Llyn was also a delight and the sweep of Ceredigion also memorable if only for the amazing banter with the staff at the Marine Hotel.
Arriving in Tremadog on Carnival Day was an experience! It can always be a struggle to get a good meal after a day’s walking, but we were lucky enough to get the last table in the Golden Fleece on Carnival Day. What we didn’t anticipate was the Rio-style atmosphere – everyone seemed worse for wear – it was only tea-time!
One of the absolute joys was arriving in town and villages with the oasis of a coffee shop. The drinks after a day’s walk have a nectar quality as if one’s taste buds had been super-sensitised.
We first walked from Chester – a six-mile stretch right into a strong headwind. So strong we couldn’t hold a conversation. The North Wales stretch proved logistically easy with the rail line hugging the coast. After that initial headwind things improved and by the time we reached Point of Ayr we felt we were well on our way. Industrial N Wales gave way to seaside resort which we guided through out of season.
There was quite a mix of weather over the years it took us to complete the path. The constant rain we endured trudging through Borth Bog was testing to say the least. Then there were the times when completing a section, we’d search for a meal in local hostelries/restaurants only to be told they were fully booked. As time went on we got smarter with our logistics skills.
There are obvious low points such as the long driving rain, the heat/cold, the blisters, the diversions, frisky cattle, industrial landscapes, and sewage farms. However, all that fades for the highs were too plentiful to recall. The shear majesty of it all makes Borth Bog evaporate.
Finishing in Solva was pretty special – it’s such an idyllic little bay. There was a welcoming committee of close friends who came to see us cross the finishing line and then onto Mamgu’s Coffee Shop for cawl to celebrate. And later there was some cheeky banter with Elvis Preseli – the car park attendant – what a star!
One lightbulb moment is to remember to sometimes step off the path now and again. We took many boat trips to view the coast from a different perspective. The other is to breathe – in fact use all of the senses. We are pleased it took us so long – we can say we savoured every last step.